Southern India's ancient tapestry hides many threads quite unknown to the casual visitor. Deep in the interior, away from the beaten track, are unimagined cultural treasure-troves - ways of life you'd never discover on a regular itinerary, yet all the more rewarding, because they are so removed from the commonplace.

In Visalam, it's as if they found an old lamp, waiting to be burnished and relit. And today, it illuminates for the discerning visitor, not just a land, but also a community and a way of life. The Chettiars were - and are - prosperous traders with a far-flung diaspora, stretching away even to Vietnam, Singapore and Malaysia. But their roots are here, in this ancient dust of Chettinad, deep in the Tamil Nadu interior. As good trading communities do, the Chettiars prospered. And Visalam is typical of the fine mid-century mansions they built in celebration.

The approach of renovation was one of minimum intervention. The fine Art Deco-influenced facades were not touched, but the inner halls were partitioned to create 15 spacious rooms, with en-suite baths. The old floors were relaid, using material from the same source as a half century prior.

The final secrets of Visalam are unlocked for you in another world entirely. This is the gallery kitchen, where, under Chef Thiyagarajan's watchful eye, the fires of Chettinad are given full rein.

The cuisine of Chettinad is long famous in the region, and this interactive space allows you to see exactly how it came to be so.  Fried Murrell, Delicately spiced lamb, Robust curries with top-notes of fresh pepper and raw mango. Chettinad food is both distinctive and varied. A fitting homecoming, and one like few others. Old Mr. Chettiar, we think, would have approved.

The Visalam experience blends old world grace with expansive modern comfort. A way, one might say, to enjoy the timeless from a 21st Century perspective. The three meals of the day are taken in separate spaces - The Breakfast Lounge, The Lunch Room and in the evening, the lamplit warmth of the Terrace Deck.