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Fringe Ford

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Description

Snuggled into a cozy valley, high up in the hills, with the grand old forest peaks towering paternally around it. Fringe Ford is as cut off from the world as you can get. It probably doesn't feature on a map, has no traffic fumes, no traffic, not even a road, and is thankfully ignored by the cell phone towers. What is does have however, is a fabulous, authentic experience of living in the middle of the jungle, some great treks, silver silence punctuated only by the occasional warning calls of birds or monkeys when a carnivore comes visiting. And it offers you the best peace you've had on vacation anywhere anytime.

There is a 360 degree view of jungle; all looking identical, but each with its own tale. The balding Namboodri peaks, named after the estate's ex-accountant, the range of hills that rises almost perpendicular at the back of the house, which once climbed, leads one on to Coorg, the peak out there, with the watch tower, which was built one day, and demolished that night by wild elephants.

Fringe Ford was named by the Englishman who had first bought the land and built it into a plantation. It changed hands since then, and was finally acquired by its present landlord, Ahmed, who being a naturalist, let the land go back to the forest. In fact, the 520-acre property shares its boundaries, not fences with the wildlife sanctuaries of Wyanad and Tholpaty reserve forest, making this entire stretch, one of the last remaining bastions of the Malabar rain forests around, with shelter for its fauna and flora.

The Stay

Rooms
Fringe Ford itself, is a beautiful low-slung bungalow, with mangalore tiles, and the wide glass windows that make it a 24-hour look out for some of the best wildlife around. There are 3 rooms in the main house, with another 5 rooms coming up a level higher, near the rock-pond and the perennial stream that is the background track to your evening bonfire. Each room is snugly outfitted with heavy wooden furniture, the softest beds you can climb into after a hard day's trek, and luxurious bathrooms, some with entire walls converted into windows. Just in case, there are some peeping tom (wild) cats out there.

Food
Old-fashioned cooking on a smoke-free charcoal stove. Start with that and there's not much that can go wrong. The cooks dish out some local cuisine that's hot and heart-warming. They go into the forests, for example, foraging for a local fern that grows nowhere else in the world, and chop it up into dinner. Other Kerala dishes make up the rest of the menu, and what makes it even more unforgettable, is that you get to eat in the kitchen itself, around a large wooden table, or against the backdrop of the flaming setting sun, or even get it all carted to a nearby waterfall, where you can trek to, only to find the food waiting already

People
If you're coming to Fringe Ford, it's probably because it's one of the last discovered places on earth, and you get your money's worth. Everything from the food to the people, is simple and genuine. No liveried butlers here or bill-toting 5-star waiters. The estate manager, Mamooty, is your guide, companion and in a day's time, one of your best friends. His wealth of knowledge about the wildlife around makes each trek you take, a biology class. The cook is an old local, who sometimes walks home at midnight , like he's done since he was a boy. Others make up a silent, courteous and mostly unseen but warmly felt presence, and it all feels like going home to your great-grandmom's on a schoolboy summer vacation

Things To Do

Some of the places worth exploring around Fringe Ford are

Lagoon
Distance 1/2 km.
Time 10 mins.
Level: Easy

Gushing gurgling water slopping into clear as crystal pools. Blue lagoon, step aside. Set out on a leisurely stroll through the Pug Dandi to your right, walk through coffee and cardamom plantations, cross a small brook and then enter the thick forest. Clamber down to the gushing water below. Hurdle no. 1 : A muddy stretch of elephant playground. Take a small detour and then walk upstream till you come across the lagoon. Water falling into 2 jungle pools in a thicket of protective trees. Worth every step. 

Waterfall
Distance 3 kms.
Time 30 - 45 mins.
Level: Medium

More adventure, more streams, more wildlife sightings expected but an awesome reward. Take the same Pug Dandi, cross the stream and continue down the same path. Soon, you cross another stream and 1 km down, you will come to a junction where another two streams meet. Cross this wilderness junction and tiptoe up the road through the abandoned cardamom plantation, because if you are quiet enough you can see more wildlife than just birds and butterflies. Now, you come across a 'Y' . Take the path to your right. Further down, wish the road and your security blanket goodbye, and continue straight on the jungle path in front of you. Yet another wild stream. As you plod on, with the rustling of leaves another sound becomes evident. The gushing of water. You hurry on and then stop and gasp. At the sheer beauty of this natural waterfall pouring 90 feet down the hillside. Walk into the curtain of water, and drink up. It's recommended to be therapeutic.

On the way back, if you're feeling adventurous, ace your steps to the road, and then take the left path back through thick shola and rainforest. A shorter route to the bungalow, though often populated by a family of elephants that does not welcome uninvited guests.

Checkpost

Distance 3 km

Level: Hard

Not for the faint-hearted or the faint-legged. But the view is worth dying for? (hopefully not literally). Cross the wooden bridge near the bungalow, continue up the road through the cardamom plantations till you reach a clearing. Take a left 'U' turn and climb through some thick rainforest. You meet the friendly stream which will be your guide thereon. Follow it till its source, and then take a sharp right. By now you will be on all fours holding onto anything that can pull you up, including our guide. It's even more disquieting when you come across other four-legged denizens, who seem much more confident than you. After the forest boundary line, it's another steep climb to the checkpost. Elephants use the same route when they feel like a view. And the view is magnificent ! You can see all of Wayanad from here, hill after rolling hill, and the comfortable bungalow you've left behind is a dot of red in the palette of green. It's tough to tear yourself away from such peace and such beauty. But survivors who still wish to go home, may follow the boundary line to the gate of the estate and follow the long road home. Praise yourself for having reached heaven and come back.

Getting There

Whichever way you come in, you've finally got to make the last stretch by road, which being a National Highway in Kerala, is a really well-maintained one. At Talapoya, it is recommended that you leave your vehicle at our designated pick-up point, and then make the trek upto Fringe Ford in the pick-up van we send you. 

The nearest cities to Fringe Ford are Thalassery (60 km) and Cannore (75 km) 

By Air 
The nearest airport is Calicut (135 km). From Calicut , the road connects through - Kalpetta - Mananthvadi - Talapoya to Fringe Ford. The entire drive time is estimated at 3hrs. 

By Rail 
The nearest rail stop is Mysore (130 km). The road connect Mysore , through Gundelpet - Sultan Bathery - Meenangadi - Mananthvadi - Talapoya to Fringe Ford. Drive time is around 3hrs. There is also a train stop at Calicut . 

By Road
Calicut: From Calicut , the road connects through - Kalpetta - Mananthvadi - Talapoya to Fringe Ford. The entire drive time is estimated at 3hrs. 

Mysore: The road connect Mysore , through Gundaelpet - Sultan Bathery - Meenangadi - Mananthvadi - Talapoya to Fringe Ford. Drive time is around 3hrs. 

Ooty: The road connect Ooty (150 km), through Gundalpet - Sultan Bathery - Meenangadi - Mananthvadi - Talapoya to Fringe Ford. Drive time is around 4 hrs. 

Coimbatore: Travelling from Coimbatore (250 km) involves hitting the Ooty road, and then making the usual route through Gundalpet, Sultan Bathery, Meenangadi and Manantavadi. Drive time estimated at 7 hours.

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